Episode 90: ‘Edged in Stone’ – Clearances & Witch Trials in Sutherland (August)
Join me on a road trip to Dornoch and Dunrobin Castle in Sutherland and for stories about the Highland Clearances, witch trials and Scottish energy sources.
‘Edged in Stone’ is part of the series A Year in Scotland. This is the August episode.
In this story, we’re heading north to Sutherland. Our journey begins near Culloden Battlefield, leads north past Inverness and the Cromarty Firth, and makes stops in Dornoch and Dunrobin Castle.
Along the way, we dive into the history of witch trials in Scotland, we learn more about the Sutherland Clearances of the 19th century, and we explore what modern-day energy policies have to do with the historic Highland Clearances.
After the story, I share my top tips for a trip to Sutherland.
Disclaimer: All information provided in this podcast is based on personal travel experiences. Companies mentioned in the story or tips were active at the time of release. If you listen to episodes at a later point, note that this information may have changed in the meantime.
Resources
Read ‘Drifting North‘ by Dominic Hinde, a story weaving together stories of Scottish energy policy and climate change
Listen to the podcast The Energy that Made Modern Scotland, hosted by historian Dr Ewan Gibbs and sociologist & writer Dr Dominic Hinde
Find out the latest from the proposed wind farm in Strath Oykel
Read the transcript of a Community Council meeting on the Impact of Major Energy Infrastructure on 14 June 2025 to find out about local concerns about wind farms in the Highlands
Check out this historic map of Sutherland and Strathnaver/Mackay Country
Source 1 & source 2 about Janet Horne in Dornoch
Read ‘The Last Witch of Scotland‘ by Philip Paris, a novel inspired by the story of Janet Horne
Find out more about the Oil Rig Graveyard at Port of Nigg
5 Travel Tips for Sutherland
1) Keep the context in mind
Dunrobin Castle is a beautiful place to visit in a gorgeous location, and I’d be a hypocrite if I told you not to visit – I’ve been there privately and countless times as a tour guide. But when you visit, try to keep the story of the Sutherland Clearances in the back of your mind. It’s not something you’ll read much about at the castle itself, but it’s still very much important context for everything you do see there.
2) Learn about the regular people of Sutherland
If you want to learn more about the people who lived in Sutherland, their way of life and how they were affected by the Clearances, there are several local history museums where you can do just that.
Start at the Timespan Museum in Helmsdale, 16 miles northeast of Dunrobin Castle. From there, follow the Clearances Trail through the Strath of Kildonan, the Strathnaver Trail north to Mackay Country, and finish with a visit of the Strathnaver Museum in Bettyhill.
3) Visit Carn Liath Broch
Located just a stone’s throw from Golspie, Carn Liath Broch is an Iron Age settlement with a large, round broch tower and stunning views of the North Sea. There is a small parking area by the main road and a foot path that leads down to the remains of the broch.
4) Have lunch on the beach in Dornoch
There is a delightful seafood shack tucked away among the dunes of Dornoch beach. It’s called Highland Larder and they serve up fresh fish and chips and seafood with a view of the sea.
5) Go inland
When people visit Sutherland, especially as they drive along the North Coast 500, there is a tendency to remain on the coastal main road. But I encourage you to head in-land and explore the region away from the coast.
What you’ll find are precious moorlands, picturesque lochs, tiny settlements and lots of historic sites. It’s well worth not rushing past all that.
Use my Flow Country guide to plan your trip!
