Episode 85: ‘Sleep Came Early’ – Cherry Blossom in Helensburgh
Join me for a journey to Helensburgh on the Firth of Clyde and let’s explore Scotland in April, the month of “hanami” and a sleepy Cailleach.
‘Sleep Came Early’ is part of the series A Year in Scotland. This is the April episode.
In this story, we travel by train up the northern shore of the River Clyde, until we reach Helensburgh – a Victorian seaside resort with a colourful history. We’ll dive into the backstory of this coastal town and its illustrious inhabitants. On our way through town, we indulge in “hanami” (the Japanese art of flower viewing), and we visit Hill House, the home of Walter Blackie which was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh. Our day ends out at sea to see Helensburgh’s waterfront, watch gannets and visit the Sugar Boat.
After the story, I share my top tips for a trip to Helensburgh and the wider Lomond area.
Disclaimer: All information provided in this podcast is based on personal travel experiences. Companies mentioned in the story or tips were active at the time of release. If you listen to episodes at a later point, note that this information may have changed in the meantime.
Resources
Use my Helensburgh & Lomond Travel Guide to plan your trip to the area!
Find out more about the cherry trees of Helensburgh.
Read about the Hill House and check out my guide to Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s architecture in & near Glasgow.
Book a trip to see the Sugar Boat with Boat Trips Helensburgh. (Please note: Sadly, the boat trips will cease to run after May 2025.)
Support the work of the Clyde Whale & Dolphin Watch.
5 Travel Tips for Helensburgh and Lomond
1) Explore on foot
Helensburgh is actually crossed by two of Scotland’s popular long-distance hikes.
The first one is the John Muir Way. It begins here in Helensburgh and leads primarily along rivers and canals to Dunbar on the east coast, where John Muir was born.
The second trail is the Three Lochs Way. It begins in Balloch on Loch Lomond, loops down through Helensburgh and continues along the shores of Gare Loch and Loch Long. It can be walked in 3 to 4 days and all sections are well connected with Helensburgh by public transport.
2) Stay at Balmillig B&B
A few years ago, I had the pleasure of staying with John and Anne Urquhart at Balmillig B&B. They own a beautiful house on one of the cherry tree-lined streets in the heart of Helensburgh. Guests have access to a beautiful sunroom which is kept cosy at night with a fire. There is even a hot tub in the garden.
And you’ll need it! John is a qualified hiking guide and can take you on easy or challenging walks in the wider Helensburgh and Lomond area.
3) Bag the peaks of the Arrochar Alps
The Arrochar Alps are one of the southernmost mountain ranges in the Highlands. The most famous peak here is Ben Arthur, but most people know it my its nickname, The Cobbler.
Just short of being a Munro itself, it’s surrounded by two peaks over 3,000 feet, making this the perfect opportunity to bag two Munros in one go. Since the car park in Arrochar can be quite pricey, it’s not a bad idea to stay in Helensburgh and reach this trail by train or by bus.
4) Check out the Destination Helensburgh Shop on Sinclair Street
Destination Helensburgh is a volunteer-run effort to promote everything Helensburgh has to offer for day trippers and tourists. Their wee shop on Sinclair Street is a great source for information, but they also stock a nice selection of Scottish crafts and gifts. Last time, I was there, I came away with ideas for my next day trip to the area, and a poster print of one of the old ads for the steamship journey.
5) Have a meal on the waterfront
When I asked my partner about his favourite thing about our trip to Helensburgh, he said: the tapas.
So I dedicate this tip to him. To be fair, the tapas at La Barca on the waterfront were truly delicious. Such a treat after a long day of exploring. Nearby, you’ll also find great fish & chips, seafood, pizzas and a French wine bar, all within a short walk from one another.
Pictures from my Helensburgh Trip in April
