Episode 70: ‘Push and Pull’ – A Journey to Barra and Vatersay by Bike
Join me for a self-powered journey across Barra and Vatersay, the southernmost (inhabited) islands in the Outer Hebrides.
‘Push and Pull’ is a story about slowing down and exploring the Isles of Barra and Vatersay by bike. I spent 3 nights on these islands which I had only visited once before – to travel even slower, by foot on the Hebridean Way. Yet somehow, I never felt like I did these islands justice – seeing so little of them on my hike… That’s what this story is about – maximising your time on the island, while also slowing down to immerse yourself in the landscapes.
We’ll explore Barra and Vatersay by bike, battle the hilly roads out of Castlebay and learn about the transformations that happen at Traigh Mhor – the big beach up north on the Isle of Barra. We meet the merry dancers in the night skies and follow the road south to the beaches of Vatersay.
At the end of the episode, I share my top tips for a slow adventure in Barra and Vatersay.
Resources
Use my Travel Guide for Barra and Vatersay
Hire bikes from Barra Bike Hire
Find local tips & info at Bùth Bharraigh
More information about Kisimul Castle
Learn more about the Hebridean Whale Trail
Disclaimer: All information provided in this podcast is based on personal travel experiences. Companies mentioned in the story or tips were active at the time of release. If you listen to episodes at a later point, note that this information may have changed in the meantime.
5 Travel Tips for Barra & Vatersay
1) Prepare for the long ferry crossing
By the time we reached Castlebay, five hours after we had left Oban, everybody on board the Calmac ferry was a little green in their face. The sea was pretty rough going and I wished, I had packed something to help with the motion sickness. The islands are worth the long crossing, but if you tend to feel queasy, you have to prepare accordingly.
2) Hire bikes from Barra Bike Hire
While there are a couple of bus services on Barra and Vatersay, hiring a bike will give you much more flexibility to explore the islands, especially on those long summer days. Barra Bike Hire is a family-run business with a fleet of regular bikes and e-bikes, as well as more comfortable touring bikes, for people cycling the Hebridean Way. There are no separate bike paths on the islands, but virtually all roads are single-track, so there’s no fast traffic and it’s very safe to cycle here.
3) Head to the community shop in Castlebay
Bùth Bharraigh is a small community shop with local produce, arts and crafts, but it’s also a visitor hub packed with information about things to do on the islands. While you can find a lot of information online, it’s worth heading to the shop to ask for local recommendations, check the posters to see if there are any special events or tours happening while you’re here, or simply for a chat with a local.
4) Do a boat trip to Kisimul Castle
It’s no surprise why Barra’s main settlement is called Castlebay. On a small island in the middle of the bay sits the medieval tower of Kisimul Castle. You’ll pass it when you arrive on the ferry and see it perched on the surface every day of your stay. Unfortunately is closed to the public and awaits conservation works, but for now, Historic Scotland offers short boat rides to get a closer look. The journey takes about 20 minutes and is free of charge – you can find the schedule in the community shop.
5) Take time for the wildlife
The Outer Hebrides are a great place for wildlife watching, and Barra and Vatersay are no different. On my trip, I heard countless corncrakes on the roadside. It’s an elusive bird that has mostly been pushed out of its habitat on mainland Britain, but here, they thrive. A great place to look for seabirds and marine wildlife is the west-facing beach behind the airport, which is on the Hebridean Whale Trail. Walk through the dunes and try to spot seals in the surf or harbour porpoises as they dash through the water. You might even spot the Barra Boys, a group of about 15 bottlenose dolphins who live here year-round.
My Trip to Barra & Vatersay in pictures
