'The Sounds of Mousa' - Two trips to Mousa in Shetland

Episode 76: ‘The Sounds of Mousa’ – Two trips to Mousa in Shetland

Join me for two back-to-back trips to Mousa in Shetland to find out whether it’s worth visiting the same place twice – in 24 hours?!

‘The Sounds of Mousa’ is a story about two back-to-back trips I did to Mousa, a small island off the west coast of Shetland. First, we head there at night to witness the return of thousands of storm petrels to their nests. The next day, we return in daylight to explore Mousa Broch and the trails across the island. Along the way, we’ll meet the men who take you to the island, learn about traditional sheep farming and dive into the history of the island.

At the end of the episode, I share my top tips for a slow adventure to Mousa and the surrounding area.

So, is it worth visiting the same place twice? Listen to find out!

TRANSCRIPT

Disclaimer: All information provided in this podcast is based on personal travel experiences. Companies mentioned in the story or tips were active at the time of release. If you listen to episodes at a later point, note that this information may have changed in the meantime.

Resources

Use my Shetland itinerary for your trip

Don’t miss these learning experiences in Shetland

Find out more about the Mousa Boat to plan your trip

5 Travel Tips for Mousa & Shetland

1) Be flexible

The Mousa Boat, like all boat trips in Scotland, is very dependent on the weather. If it’s too windy, the narrow Sound between Mainland and Mousa is not safe to cross, so the boat gets cancelled on a regular basis. I actually had to reshuffle my plans because the boat was cancelled two days in a row – luckily it was on again for the nighttime trip and I could do the day trip the next day.

2) Bring cash

Because of the risk of cancellations, the Mousa Boat daytime trip cannot be booked in advance and all payments are taken in cash. Note that there is no cash machine in the village, so you may have to travel as far as Lerwick, if you’re not carrying cash with you already. The storm petrel trip must be booked in advance, but even here, payment is taken in cash before you board the boat.

3) See the exhibition by the pier

When you do the daytime trip to Mousa, set aside some time before departure to tour the small exhibition inside the ferry waitroom. The museum tells the story of Mousa, but also of the communities across the water on the Mainland. You’ll find lots of stories here, from remarkable men and women from the area to the pier which was painstakingly restored a few years ago.

4) Learn even more about the local history at the Hoswick Visitor Centre

Hoswick is a small village, a few bays west of Mousa. It’s best known for its textile heritage, and the best place to learn more about this is the Hoswick Visitor Centre. There’s a small exhibition about the local area, and if you’re lucky you’ll bump into Betty Smith, whose uncle founded the textile mill and weaving factory in the village over a hundred years ago and brought not only employment but global acknowledgement to the skilled women of Shetland. Today, the weaving factory houses the visitor centre, but the mill still exists. It’s employee-owned and sells beautiful knitwear in a small shop around the corner.

Visit Jarshof near the southern tip of the mainland

We may not know much about the purpose of Mousa Broch, but we can learn a lot by visiting similar sites in nearby areas. Jarlshof is a remarkable site near Sumburgh Head on the South Mainland. Archaeologists have discovered layer upon layer of human habitation all in the same spot, ranging from oval-shaped houses from the Bronze Age and Iron Age roundhouses, to longhouses built by the Vikings and a medieval farmstead. Some of the structures are extremely well-preserved and your ticket includes an audio guide, so you can learn more about who built them and how they were used, all while standing among their towering walls.

Another great place to learn more about Shetland in the Iron Age is the Shetland Museum in Lerwick.