Episode 98: ‘A Winter’s Morning’ – The Lochs & Glens of Argyll in Winter
Join me for a wintery day trip to the lochs and glens of Argyll.
‘A Winter’s Morning’ is part of the series A Year in Scotland. This is the February episode.
In this story, I take you to one of my favourite regions in Scotland. We rise early for a golden sunrise at Loch Lomond, continue on to the beautiful castle ruin of Kilchurn Castle for breakfast, and explore the narrow road and dense forest of Glen Orchy.
We experience what it means for winter to hold these landscapes in a tight grip, and ponder what it would be like to spend a bit more than a day here.
After the story, I share with you my top tips for a trip to the lochs and glens of Argyll.
Disclaimer: All information provided in this podcast is based on personal travel experiences. Companies mentioned in the story or tips were active at the time of release. If you listen to episodes at a later point, note that this information may have changed in the meantime.
Resources
Learn more about Kilchurn Castle
Follow the same hike as me to Allt Broighleachan Pinewood
Climb two Munros in a day: An Caisteal & Beinn a’Chroin (but wait for summer conditions)
Spend more time in the Loch Lomond & Trossachs National Park – here’s everything you should do there!
5 Travel Tips for Argyll in Winter
1) Go for a sunrise hike above Luss
Loch Lomond is one of my favourite places in Scotland for a winter sunrise. In this story, I chose to remain down below on the shore – but other times, I have put on my hiking boots and gained a bit of elevation to witness the spectacular show the sun puts on here every day.
My hike of choice is the route up Beinn Dubh, the black mountain. From the main village car park, make your way to the A82 overpass to reach the road up Glen Luss. Enter the fields to a small gate on the right and follow the trampled footpath up the side of the mountain. You don’t have to climb far to leave the trees behind and enjoy uninterrupted views to the east. You’ll see the sun rise over Conic Hill and dip the islands on the loch in its golden light.
2) Storm Kilchurn Castle from two sides
There are two main places to keep in mind when you visit the ruins of Kilchurn Castle.
The first one, you heard about in today’s story. Park in a small layby along the A814 and cross the fields over to the edge of the loch, for a fantastic view across the water. Taking the longer way around the field, rather than crossing it diagonally to reach the loch can be drier underfoot.
But there is also another car park along the main road A85. From here, a boggy path leads not just to the shore of Loch Awe, but right up to the ruins themselves. Kilchurn Castle is free to visit, and if you have the time it certainly is worth getting your feet a little wet.
3) Visit St Conan’s Kirk
If you’re in the area for a little while longer, keep going down the main road towards Oban and after a couple of miles, you’ll reach St Conan’s Kirk.
Fuelled by the arrival of the Oban railway line in the late 19th century, the settlements on the northern shore of Loch Awe thrived into villages, and the architect Walter Douglas Campbell was asked to build a church. His design is somewhat unorthodox, mixing a range of architectural styles, but the small church remains until this day one of the most beautiful buildings in this part of the Highlands, inside and out.
4) Here’s your reminder to check the road conditions if you travel in winter
Wherever you travel in Scotland during the winter months, it’s important to keep an eye on the road conditions. Main roads are very often cleared quite quickly, but smaller roads, like the one down Glen Orchy, are not necessarily considered a priority. Winding, single-track roads, over-shadowed by mountains and untouched by the low winter sun may not be passable during the winter months. Only head out if you’re confident driving in winter conditions, and if you’ve got an appropriate vehicle to do so.
When in doubt pick a route that starts near a main road, or can be reached by public transport – like the hike up Beinn Dubh in Luss from Tip Number 1.
5) Stop for a bite to eat at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel
I squeezed everything you heard in the story into a wintery morning and managed to be home in time for an itinerary consultation call in the late afternoon. But if I didn’t have that appointment scheduled, I would have stopped for a bite to eat at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel before returning hime to Glasgow. Who knows, with winter deals on accommodation, I may have even stayed a night. The hotel was one of the first I visited on a winter trip to the Highlands 12 years ago and it still holds a special place in my heart – with its cosy bar, roaring fireplace and beautiful surroundings. It lies just beyond the northern end of the Glen Orchy Road and would make the perfect place for a stopover.
