‘Traces’ – Hiking across the Isle of Kerrera
‘Traces’ – Hiking across the Isle of Kerrera

‘Traces’ – Hiking across the Isle of Kerrera

Episode 33 (Season 4): ‘Traces’

Let’s hop on the ferry and explore the small Isle of Kerrera near Oban!

‘Traces’ is a story about the traces of history you can uncover on the Isle of Kerrera. Traces of Neolithic settlements, medieval conflicts and modern quirks. But it’s also a story about the traces, places like Kerrera can leave in your mind.

We’re joining local mountain guide Kirsty Pallas for a day trip to Kerrera, a walk to the dramatic ruin of Gylen Castle and a yummy meal at the islands famous tea garden. We meet people who call the island their home, and the animals who live among side – some more surprising than others.

After the story, I’ll tell you some of my top tips to make the most of your trip to the Isle of Kerrera!


Written and hosted by Kathi Kamleitner.
Produced, edited and sound design by Fran Turauskis.
Transcripts and social media by Michelle Payne.
Cover Art illustrated by Lizzie Vaughan-Knight.
All original music composed by Bruce Wallace.
Additional sound effects from Zapsplat.
All photographs by Kathi Kamleitner.

Useful Links

Use my Isle of Kerrera guide to plan your day trip to the island.

Join our email list for weekly glimpses behind the scenes and links to further reading, videos to watch and more.

Disclaimer: All information provided in this podcast is based on personal travel experiences. Companies mentioned in the story or tips were active at the time of release. If you listen to episodes at a later point, note that this information may have changed in the meantime.

My Isle of Kerrera Travel Tips

Arrive early

The car park at the ferry slipway is relatively small and finding a spot can be an issue. I recommend you aim for an early ferry to increase your chances on a parking spot and to allow you plenty of time on the island.

Alternatively, you can cycle or walk to the ferry from Oban, or catch a local bus. It’s about two miles along the road from the train station in Oban to the Kerrera ferry

Eat at the Kerrera Tea Garden

We had initially considered bringing our own lunch pack on our hike, but once we decided to go to Kerrera, we knew we had to eat at the Kerrera Tea Garden instead – and I’m so glad we did. Not only was the food delicious, it’s also good to support local businesses, especially when you visit island communities. The prices are reasonable and as a nice surprise, the Tea Garden now even accepts card payments.

Get the visitor guide on the ferry

It’s easy to visit a small island like Kerrera and walk right past some of its most significant historic sites because they’re not signposted. The Iron Age fort we explored with Kirsty is a prime example of this. For such a small island there is a lot to see!

I picked up the Kerrera visitor guide at the ferry which tells you more about the history of the island and sites of interest. It also contains a map and descriptions of the two main walking routes around the island. 

Hire a local guide

Nothing beats the expertise of a local guide. Kirsty Pallas, who accompanied us on this day trip, is a mountain guide who lives near Oban and knows Kerrera really well. She took us to places we would have otherwise missed and told us lots of stories about the island. Even though the route isn’t hard or technically challenging, it was still amazing to have an experienced guide with us to offer guidance and context.

Stay a little while longer

There are no B&Bs or hotels on the island, but there are two self-catering cottages – one at Horseshoe Bay near the ferry (email horseshoebaychalet@gmail.com to enquire), and one in Ardentrive on the north end (email to ardentrivecottage@gmail.com to enquire). You can also hire the bunkhouse by the Tea Garden via AirBnB.

Pictures from the Isle of Kerrera


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